Article

2004-02-29

Political Reform in Bahrain: end of a road?

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Posted by Mike Sylwester 2004-02-29 9:39:40 AM|| || Front Page|| [11130 views since 2007-05-07] Top

#1 One only has to cross the causeway, a 20km road-bridge between Saudi Arabia and Bahrain, to confirm that nothing of substance has changed with recent "reforms". The first things you see on the Bahrani side are the compounds owned by "king" Sheikh Hamad and the Prime Minister Sheikh Khalifa.

On the left you'll see an island - from the road it's impossible to be sure how large it is - connected to the highway the causeway becomes... It contains a large number of impressive buildings, a Jack Nicklaus golf course - and who knows what else - all contained within a wall. This little hideaway belongs to the recently-minted "king" of Bahrain. There is a constant flow (over a span of 2.5 years that I witnessed on regular visits, anyway) of concrete trucks rumbling in and out. By Royal decree, Bahrani drivers are not allowed to make these deliveries - what is being built is, apparently, not something the "king" wants the locals to know too much about.

On the right, a little further down the highway into Bahrain, one can see the entrance to the PM's residence. There is an grand archway, reminiscent of Egyptian architecture, and a road that runs arrow-straight for at least 3 miles and lined with perfectly-matching palms which leads to the front gate of the PM's compound. His is much better hidden from view from the highway, so visible details are few. From the impressive entry, one may reasonably presume that what lies within is impressive, as well.

What is clear, if you hang around long enough, is that a major chunk of the wealth of Bahrain (revenues are only $1.8Bn annually), mainly generated by processing Saudi oil, banking, and international business due to its proximity to the oil producers of the GCC - with a more liberal / livable environment, is still being siphoned off - and only lip service is being paid to reforms of any significance.

Posted by .com 2004-2-29 11:32:13 AM|| 2004-2-29 11:32:13 AM|| Front Page Top

#2 Reform will come to Bahrain at a much slower pace but it will still come. Financially, Bahrain's cash comes from serving as a restrained version of Las Vegas for Saudi weekends. That means that Bahrain will always have to adjust it's cultural restraint in whatever direction that Saudi customers demand. As Saudi Arabia slowly opens up, Bahrain will have to slowly loosen it's restraints to Saudi needs. As an illustration, think of hom many American tourists vacation in New Orleans and Vegas versus those who choose Napponee, Indiana - Amish country.
Rapid change will not be allowed because few people want to unwind in a location with riots and unrest. Also if the change gets out of hand the US will move it's naval base or assiste in keeping order.

Posted by Super Hose 2004-2-29 11:43:05 AM|| 2004-2-29 11:43:05 AM|| Front Page Top

#3 versus those who choose Napponee, Indiana - Amish country.
Per usual I'm behind the curve. I think Lancaster PA is near heaven... food, horses, trains, liquor... what else do ya want?

Posted by Shipman 2004-2-29 12:32:50 PM|| 2004-2-29 12:32:50 PM|| Front Page Top

#4 Ship, I like Amish country as well, but most Americans would identify the Tamil Tigers as a farm team for Detroit.

Posted by Super Hose 2004-2-29 1:08:56 PM|| 2004-2-29 1:08:56 PM|| Front Page Top

#5 SH - Cascading effects... Since the new "king" granted asylum and allowed the troublemakers (Islamists) to return, there has been a major resurgence in religious control. I saw it beginning within 6 months after his "election" to "king" - street protests, mini-riots, burning businesses, etc. Beginning about Jan, 2003, the Islamists had gained enough steam to force the shut down of all bars not within or attached to hotels. There are only a very few exceptions - and Manama used to be teeming with watering holes. I liked a place called Henry's, myself - now gone. Also, the quiet but readily available prostitution racket was almost wiped out and is now isolated to just a couple of hotels - interestingly, they are very near the Grand Moskkk. There is almost no Western-style nightlife to be found in Bahrain, anymore. Thus the number of Saudi weekenders, which used to be a wall of cars hitting the causeway every Wednesday afternoon like a tidal wave, has diminshed to a rather leisurely dribble. At the end of my tour it was actually pleasant to go to Seef Mall - not squeezed on all sides by Saudis - and, be still my beating heart: you could even get a table at the Starbucks without waiting an hour or two.

Hang a wreath, bro: the "good times" are gone cuz the Islamists are back.

Posted by .com 2004-2-29 1:24:27 PM|| 2004-2-29 1:24:27 PM|| Front Page Top

#6 .com,

I was crafting my opus while you were submitting a better answer. My Bahrainian experience was limited to a half dozen port calls while escorting Kuwaiti tankers around.

The royal family seemed to look the other way when one of our drunken sailors celbrated Ramadan by stumbling down a main thoroughfare, goosing Ababa clothed women on the butt and supposed trekking up the front of and over the roof of a limo belonging to the Royal family. We were quite surprised that he was given back to us without being tenderized. Centcom did kick us out of port - we also got kicked out of Palma later on.

The incident convinced me that the American military was important to the Royal family and that the status quo was important to both parties. I thought that the Saudis controllled much of the economy in Bahrain, but that was just a guess on my part. I didn't know that they had a slice of the oil business.
My favorite place in Bahrain was the Holiday Inn for American beef night. There were even bacon bits available for the salad bar.

Posted by Super Hose 2004-2-29 4:01:51 PM|| 2004-2-29 4:01:51 PM|| Front Page Top

#7 Damn, I though I'taewon in Seoul was fun. You swabbies really know how to party. I never got kicked out of a whole country.

Posted by whitecollar redneck 2004-2-29 4:10:05 PM|| 2004-2-29 4:10:05 PM|| Front Page Top

#8 Bahrain also has a powerless Shi'ite majority. Big potential problems there.

Posted by closet neo-con 2004-2-29 4:23:42 PM|| 2004-2-29 4:23:42 PM|| Front Page Top

#9 Whitecollar, getting kicked out of Spain was actually more dramatic. We were outboard of the Sierra, which ended up at security alert with a bunk of shotguns topside. On the pier part of the Spanish stand-off were seven cars of Guardia Seville. The fight originated over an argument about 50 cents between a sailor and a cab driver.

Posted by Super Hose 2004-2-29 7:04:16 PM|| 2004-2-29 7:04:16 PM|| Front Page Top

#10 Whitecollar, getting kicked out of Spain was actually more dramatic. We were outboard of the Sierra, which ended up at security alert with a bunch of shotguns topside. On the pier part of the Spanish stand-off were seven cars of Guardia Seville. The fight originated over an argument about 50 cents between a sailor and a cab driver.

Posted by Super Hose 2004-2-29 7:04:47 PM|| 2004-2-29 7:04:47 PM|| Front Page Top

#11 SH - Bahrain, since its own crude is down to strippers (this is oil talk for you mugs seeking thrills, ha!) and since they already had petro & chemical processing facilities, they put it use with Saudi oil. They are "given" some very nice preference deals by the Saudis, such as free oil - which I think is one reason why there were so few Saudis tossed in the jug back in the wilder days. And the Saudis are the most arrogant "shit in your face if they think they can get away with it" assholes ever born on Earth. Even the Chinese would have to take refresher courses in advanced snobbery to keep up with how the Saudis treated the Bahrainis. The Bahrainis became pragmatic and relatively good businessmen when they couldn't swagger with oil output. I think the little Emir, Hamad's predecessor, had a lot to do with this much more relaxed version of being an Arab, too. He was a hoot, IMHO. Imported Brit HK cops to train his police - complete with those white HK uniforms. Anyway, I think this spilled over into why the US based you guys there and how / why they were so tolerant. The guy you described, had that happened in Saudi, would've gotten a taste of what those Brits were complaining about - beaten feet, starvation, sleep deprivation, truncheons - the whole shebang. I'm glad the Bah's were the ones he did it to!

I'm trying to recall the Holiday Inn buffet - not sure I hit it or not. Like those "jacketed" potatoes that went with your American beef? Whassamatter? You think that Aussie / NZ stuff is too stringy, too? Grass-fed and as lean as steel. I never found a way to cook their steaks or roasts that it didn't come out bad (unless you left it raw) - so I settled for ground beef when I couldn't get that grain-fed marbled wonderous artery-clogging American stuff! ;-)

The 50 cent fight in Palma sure rings true! Silly shit like that happens in lots of places! Rich American "stiffs" poor little local (at least that's the local's story!) - that'll get a good crowd going every time! Very funny classic!

Posted by .com 2004-2-29 9:11:36 PM|| 2004-2-29 9:11:36 PM|| Front Page Top

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